Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.